Athos Agion Oros

992 - the Protaton roof removed!

Giannis took some fine pictures of Athos in the wintertime in the start of February 2010.

To my surprize he shows us a picture of the Protaton church without the ugly roof that protected the church for years during the long restoration! Does it mean the restoration is finished and that we finally can see the fresco's of Panselinos inside the church once again?

Here a picture fron Vatopedi friend from Januari 2010: the roof still seems to be there!

September 27th 2009

Here a picture posted on Flickr in december 2009: you can see that they are dismantling the roof.

This is how it looked September 30th 2009.

The answer to our question is on this photo here from the 3th of February.
Wim, 6/2

991 - 2009 Trip to Athos: the road to Karyes day 1 - 13

This is already the thirteenth blog about our first day on Athos op September 27th 2009, and we've only been there for 3 hours!

On our way from Palio Monastiro to Karyes I took 15 pictures. I have to admit that they are not very exiting, but I'll show them to you anyway, just to give you an impression how it is to walk the roads on Mount Athos.

Photo 1: a turn with a sign "Sto Vouno' meaning "To the Mountain'

Photo 2: a small road descents. It was beautifull weather on September 27th: 20 - 25 Celsius and a strong wind.

Photo 3: The top of Mount Athos covered with a 'hat' of clouds.

Photo 4: new signs point the way to Karyes, Anapausia (kelli belonging to I.M. Koutloumousíou), Xiropotamou, Panteleimonos and Xenofontos.

Photo 5: an iron sign, standing between pine and oak trees, points back to where we came from.

Photo 6: a junction wiht a large wooden cross. A dog - lower left - followed us from the settlement near the sign 'Sto Vouno', as if he was our best friend.

Photo 7: as far the eye stretches: oak, pine, heather and oleander: the stunning nature of the Garden of the Mother of God.

Photo 8: through a wall of chesnut trees

Photo 9: Forestery

Photo 10: Forestery II, again with the sign pointing to "Anapausia"

Photo 11: the crossing with the main road to Karyes, with a sign to Karyes and Koutloumousiou

Photo 12: a sign with kellia above and under Kapsála

Photo 13: a well kept kellion - name unknown

Photo 14: cell of Agios Nikodimos

Photo 15: the South East part of Athos, just before arriving in Karyes.

This ends this boring blog, next time more about Karyes and its buildings.

Wim Voogd, 1/2

990 - book: Athos Kuren, a Danish cookbook

In 940 I showed you a new book about food and cooking on Athos. The writer makes an connection between the healthy food on Mount Athos and the fact that the monks suffer less from cancer.

The book has 257 pages and it discribes 96 recepies: of most of them it is likely that they are being cooked and served on the Holy Mountain, especially if you have the chance to visit Mylopotamos/Father Epifanios (see above picture), who has the reputation of being the best cook on Athos. But do not get the impression the the average meal on the Holy Mountain is of such a high standard. Most of the time it is very basic but tastfull, but do not expect to be in a restaurant.

The fisherman of Iviron, Father Ioannis

I have to give my compliments to the writer, but also to the photogapher, who make some beautifull pictures, knowing that both of them spend spend only a short time on Athos and only visited a small part of the peninsula. My only critism is that the writer could have done some more research about the Holy Mountain and Orthodoxy (the permit is called a Diamoniterion and not a dimitrion), but I have to realize it is mainly a cookbook and NOT an Athos-book. The second minor criticism is that some of the recepies are a little bit to much inspired by the Danish tast (eating fresh tuna steak or meat from large North Sea crabs is definitely not an option in Athos).

Father Ioannis enjoying a meal on his balustrade at the Iviron arsanas

A funny story from the book is the meeting between the writer and Father Ioannis, the fisherman form Iviron. They spend an evening and night talking, eating and drinking. The monk speach good English, is educated in film history and knew everything about Lars von Trier films!

Father Ioannis with lobsters!

Father Ioannis with octopodia.

You can buy the book here.

Wim, 28/1

989 - etchings and Athos

In the past time I found some etchings, which I want to show to you.

I bought this one two months ago. It is not an original old etching, but a print published in a book, but I liked the image anyway. It showes Esfigmenou in a time when photos did not excist. Look at the ships/boats lying on the beach.

Esfigmenou: almost the same image, with even more boats and seen from a wider angle. This one dates from 1860.

Another engraving of Esfigmenou. In French it says: "Un cloitre du mont Athos".

"Council-General of the Epistates". 11 man sitting and 4 standing in a simple room, with two icons on the wall and lamp with an ostrich egg. The visitor (in white) greets the Holy Epistatia. One of them smokes a pipe, another pipe lies in front of the carpet. The hats look unfamiliar, they resamble an Islamic way of dressing.

The harvest of the hazelnuts: "La recolté des noisettes au mont Athos - Dessin de Villevieille d'apres M.A. Proust (1860)". The figure in the middle can't be woman, although she looks like one ........

"The monastery of Iveron" (Iviron)

A fresco from Lavra - 1860, French, showing Isaak, Abraham and Jacob. "....... (?) de la trapeza de Lavra, les trois Patriarches - Dessin du Therond d'apres une photographie" - 1860

The Phiale of Lavra - 1860: "La Phiale ou le Baptistere du couvent de Lavra (voy p. 120). Dessin de Lancelot d'apres une photographie".

View on Athos from Sithonia - 1860: "Vue general du mont Athos. Dessin de Villevieille d'apres M.A. Proust

And an etching from Germany (?) from 1943 with a monk writing in a notebook.

Wim Voogd, 27/1

988 - cats

Every monastery has cats. This one is stretching himself in Iviron. Watch the typical Iviron yellow and the ancient stones in the background. Photo by hv sept. 2009.

There were many cats in Sografu monastery.

Sografu in front of the diningroom. Photo by B.Kamps sept. 2009.

Just outside Sografu by B.Kamps.
hv

987 - Mortification

Photo by Robert Byron (author of The Station) 1920- 1930: iron corset for mortification, now disused.. Photographed in Xenophontos.
Did not find background information about mortification on Athos. The subtitle under the photo stated clearly that this corset is no longer used.
The term "mortification of the flesh" comes from Saint Paul in this quote: "For if you live according to the flesh you will die, but if by the Spirit you put to death the deeds of the body you will live". (wikipedia)

In its simplest form, it can mean merely denying oneself certain pleasures. It can also be practiced by choosing a simple or even impoverished lifestyle; this is often one reason many monks of various religions take vows of poverty.
In some of its more severe forms, it can mean causing self-inflicted pain and physical harm, such as by beating, whipping, piercing, or cutting. (wikipedia)
This is said about the popeJohn Paul
hv

986 - Athos on Google Earth / Community Walk

This map shows you the most important buildings on the Holy Mountain and might help you get around. Beware, Google Earth and Panaramio isn't that acurate with positioning places and pictures, so you better look here (also see Links: "Map of Athos on Google Earth").

I made some improvements and added pictures to the places I did see until now. The blue path shows you the route of Wim's group in 2009.
Wim, 23/1

985 - Paleo Monastirion/old roussikon: the old wall

Keliotes has found the location of the vintage photo on the previous blogpost. It is not building F but the old wall. His story here in Greek. Here an interesting collection of images

There are a lot of unanswered questions about this spot:

1. How many monks are living in Old Roussikon? We saw one monk in sept. 2009.
2. What are the plans for this place for 2016 (I understand there is budget)? In 2016 the Russians will be 1000 years on the Holy mountain and there will be festivities.
3. Are there plans to restore f.i. the "wooden church" building F?
4. They are developing a large piece of land north of this spot. What for? Agricultural reasons?
5, What can be seen in the interior of the churches?

We are curious for the answers. Who could give them?

The old wall by hv sept.2009
hv

984 - 2009 Trip to Athos: Paleo Monastirion day 1 - 12

After paying a visit to the main church in the Old Russian monastery we went out to see one of the most mysterious buildings on Mount Athos.

The problem is: you can't reach it. Look at this wooden fence that surrounds this building (F on the map in 972).

If you want to get some more information, books about Athos do not help you much. Here is a picture from the book of Erich Feigl (from 1960/70?). Instead of helping us it brings on more questions, as we can later see from the pictures I will show you.

And by trying to Google for more info I was surprized to end up at my own weblog, because our reader Hans Overduin already gave some beautifull pictures of Paleo Monastirion from 1997 - see nr 356).

The building F with a hexagon dome and the outside wall, covered with wooden planks.

Building F north side

Building F south side

If you have a closer look at the picture from the Feigl book does not match the pictures I took. The planks on the Feigl picture form a shape with curves or edges and I could not find this on the F-building. The windows also are different.
Could it be a picture of a distroyed part of the place? It might be so, just have look at the first picture of post 356, where a structure along the "old wall" shows up, that was totaly disappeard in 2009.

Building F from the road to Karyes

And finaly a picture from my friend Jitze, with a good overview of the mysterious building F.

A lot of questions arrise after showing these pictures. But I am afraid that the answers are not easy to find, although, the collective memory and knowledge of our readers usually brings us a long way!

But it is time to move on. It is only 14.00 h. on day one and yet the day is not over!

Courtyard Palio Monastiro, time to walk on.

Next time more about the route to Karyes.

Wim, 22/1

983 - Entrance Vatopedi

Fernand Cuville head entrance Vatopedi. Autochrome, very early colour photographie 1918.

Almost the same shot (by hv) but now in sept. 2009.

The stained glas window is not the same as in 1918. Maybe it is the old glas but they changed the composition.

This is by Robert Byron 1928 witer of the book The Station Athos: Treasures and Men.
hv

982 - postcards of Skiti Andreou - Serail

Today I found this postcard of Skiti Andreou without the church, that was used for the first time on June 16th 1900.

On the back of this postcard it says 1917, but this picture must have been taken long before 1900, because there are no signs of building activities, except for ones on the left, outside the complex.
The foundation stone of the largest church of the Balkan is laid in 1867.

In 1841 the Serail just was a small cell with a handfull of monks, belonging to Vatopediou. Giannis send me a picture from 1860 of this original cell called Ag. Antoniou (see his weblog nr 281). The picture is made by a Russian archeographer and collectioner P.I. Sevastianov, who came to pay visit in 1852, just after the invention of photography, and who held workshops in Skiti Andreou.

The cell is situated where the red arrow is pointing:

Early 20th century postcard.

Serail - lithograph from around 1900
(also see 491)
Wim, 19/1

981 - 2009 Trip to Athos: Palio Monastiro day 1 - 11

I continue my report of our visit to The Old Russian monastery, Palaio Russiko Monastirion, by showing pictures of the church, dedicated to the Mother of God "Potsajevskija" (of Potsjajev).

The north side is under, south above in this plan. The bell tower near E is not round but is a hexagon.

(A) The main church - south, as seen from the road that leads to Karyes.

Building of the church in traditional Russian style started 1880 and finished three years later.

The main church - south

The round stairs and entrance hidden by trees (E)

Entrance and bell tower: notice the icon of Panteleimon (?) above the door (E)

Two Corinthian columns and the round stairs (E)

The North facade of the church with the typical "Russian" round roof and high windows. Notice the stairs at the right and the wooden structure.

The wooden structure.

Inside this structure you will find this steel door: the door must have given Fathers the opportunity to leave the church discretely. If you have a closer look inside the wooden building you understand why.

Inside the wooden structure: a toilet!

Wim, 18/1

980 - Maps (high res)

The Cutsinger map.

The Rolf Gross map.

The Russian map

The Russian map 2
hv

979 - art: Julian Vilarrubi

Vatopedi monks

Simonas Petras
The artist:
In this mixed show I have seven new paintings ranging from views of Simonopetra Monastery to monks walking across flagstones towards the church at Vatopedi, Mount Athos, Greece.
The show runs to January 28th. 2010.
Francis Kyle Gallery
9 Maddox Street
Mayfair London
hv

978 - Georgian Monks on Mt Athos

This is the first English translation of the Georgian Lives of Euthymios the Hagiorite (955-1028) – along with John the Iberian – and George the Hagiorite (1009-1065). Commemorated as saints of the Orthodox Church, Euthymios and George were distinguished hegoumenoi on Mount Athos during the eleventh century who greatly influenced both the Church of Georgia and Georgian culture.

The end of the tenth century was a period when monks arrived from different parts of the Byzantine Empire to seek the solitary life on the Holy Mountain of Athos in northern Greece. Georgian monks formed a part of the initial steps to introduce the communal way of monastic life there, and one of the first communities on Mount Athos was Iviron, founded as the monastery of the Iberians (Georgians).

The monks of Iviron were strongly supported by their fellow countrymen back in Georgia and they also benefited from imperial patronage. Euthymios and George – wise leaders and spiritual teachers, outstanding translators and writers – were able to play a crucial role in this development by maintaining close contacts with the Byzantine imperial court as well as church leaders both in Constantinople and the Christian East.
hv

977 - Article by Jeff Koyen

Pilgrim's Progress
I am the Jew in the Vatican. The black man at the Klan rally. The capitalist in Red Square. I am a Roman Catholic living for four days with the monks of Mt. Athos, and the monks of Mt. Athos don't particularly like Roman Catholics.
I am in the holiest of Holy Lands for the Orthodox Church. The true church. The original church from which Roman Catholicism split when it got too big for its britches. The "Holy Mountain" is an idyllic, relatively untouched mountainous peninsula in northern Greece, somewhere on the upside of 130 square miles. Twenty monasteries carry on the traditions of the Orthodox Church, defending it against the changes that so corrupted Catholicism and denying modernization with...well...religious zeal
Read the complete story here.. An account of a "catholic", unexperienced, sceptical American journalist who is using the F** word to much, in my opinion , but a good writer.
hv

976 - Art: engraving by W. Roberts 1848

Plan of Deinocrates to carve Mt Athos into a likeness of Alexander the Great, drawn by Didier and engraved by W. Roberts c.1848. Here you see an original drawing by Do Cortona of the same plan.
hv

975 - Sacred Mount Athos

Sacred Mount Athos - Treasures from the Byzantine Millennium. The award-winning documentary about the second most revered site of pilgrimage in Christianity outside of the Holy Land. Take a behind the scenes look at the ancient treasures and iconography kept locked inside the sacred monasteries.

Video from Google Video (which could not be embedded). Thanks to Rainer.

Wim, 16/1

974 - Roundshots

Here you will find nice 360 roundshots of Simonas Petras.
hv

973 - M.Basil Pennington: O Holy Mountain!

I got the boat to the Simonos Petra landing. A merchant in Daphni gave me a bag of fish to bring along and a letter. Fortunately, he said to leave the fish at the dock. The climb, over a thousand feet straight up in the noonday sun, with my bag on my shoulder, was a real workout - purgatory on the way to heaven.

The monastery itself is quite cool, catching the mountain breezes. It is very well kept. I received a cheerful welcome from the guest-master, Father Theologos, and was given a room that looks out on the courtyard and the katholikon, the main church of the monastery. I hope I will be able to stay here. Silence reigns here except for the birds, the wind and the water.
Contemplative silence described in O Holy Mountain! - Journal of a Retreat on Mount Athos by Fr. M. Basil Pennington (1931–2005), who was a Trappist monk at St. Joseph's Abbey, Spencer, Massachusetts, as well as a spiritual writer and teacher.
Fr. Basil Pennington's book O Holy Mountain! is out of print. But it appears to have been republished under the torturous title, The Monks of Mount Athos: A Western Monk's Extraordinary Spiritual Journey on Eastern Holy Ground.
See also nr. 471. More parts of this book here. Thanks to On an overgrown path
hv